Ladanon Hair Tonic

Recreating an Ancient Mediterranean Hair Treatment

Inspired by a preparation described by Dioscorides in De Materia Medica, this fragrant hair tonic combines labdanum, myrrh, olive oil, wine, and bay laurel in a reconstruction of an ancient Mediterranean medicinal cosmetic.

Labdanum was one of the most prized aromatic substances of the ancient world, valued as a perfume, incense, medicine, and cosmetic ingredient. Combined with myrrh and fragrant herbs, it creates a remarkably luxurious treatment with a warm resinous aroma and a surprisingly silky feel on the hair.

A Note on Historical Accuracy

The original classical preparation attributed to Dioscorides uses myrtle oil, which was widely associated with hair care, perfumery, and cosmetic treatments in the ancient Mediterranean world.

In this reconstruction, I’ve used bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) because it is far easier to obtain for most modern herbalists and produces a beautifully aromatic, conditioning herbal oil.

If you have access to fresh or dried myrtle leaves (Myrtus communis), you can substitute them directly for the bay leaves for a version that is closer to the historical recipe.

Substitution:

• 6 g dried bay laurel leaves → 5 - 6 g dried myrtle leaves

Myrtle would give a greener, sharper fragrance, while bay laurel produces a warmer, spicier, slightly camphoraceous aroma. Both work beautifully with labdanum and myrrh.

Ingredients

Aromatic Oil Phase

• 150 ml extra virgin olive oil
• 6 g dried bay laurel leaves, lightly crushed / broken
  (or 5 - 6 g dried myrtle leaves for a more historically accurate version)
• 3 g labdanum resin, chopped into small pieces

Myrrh Wine Extract

• 40 ml red wine
• 5 g myrrh resin, coarsely crushed

Equipment

• 2 small saucepan
• 1 Pot boiler (bain-marie)
• Mortar and pestle
• Muslin cloth or cheesecloth
• Glass jug for overnight maceration
• Small funnel
• Glass bottle or alabastron-style vessel

Method

1. Prepare the Aromatic Oil

Place the olive oil and crushed, dried bay leaves in a small saucepan or heatproof bowl set over gently simmering water. Warm over low heat (around 50–60°C) for 45–60 minutes. Do not exceed 60°C, or you will cook away the essential oil compounds.

Add the labdanum resin and stir occasionally until it softens and disperses into the oil. The oil should become deeper in colour, noticeably fragrant, and slightly thicker in texture.

Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely. Leave to macerate overnight for a fuller extraction.

2. Make the Myrrh Wine Tincture

Lightly crush the myrrh resin using a mortar and pestle. Place it in a small jar and pour over the red wine. Stir well, cover, and leave to macerate overnight. If the myrrh hasn't fully dissolved in the wine, add the jar to a hot water bath, or gently heat the tincture in a pan. Again, do not exceed 60°C to preserve the aromatics. 

The wine will darken and take on a rich balsamic aroma as the aromatic compounds are extracted from the myrrh.

3. Strain the Preparations

Strain the bay and labdanum oil through muslin, pressing the leaves gently to recover the infused oil. Discard the spent herbs.

Strain the myrrh wine extract through a fine filter. You will notice that the remaining myrrh is mostly woody bark residue, while the wine carries the extracted fragrance and colour.

4. Combine

Pour the strained myrrh wine extract into the aromatic oil and stir thoroughly. Funnel the finished tonic into a clean glass bottle.

Because this is a traditional-style preparation containing both oil and wine, it will separate naturally. Shake well before each use.

To Use

1. Shake the bottle vigorously.
2. Apply a small amount to damp hair.
3. Massage through the lengths and ends.
4. Comb through evenly.
5. Leave for at least 20 minutes or overnight as a nourishing hair mask.
6. Rinse thoroughly and wash with a mild shampoo. 

What to Expect

Despite the presence of olive oil and resins, the tonic feels surprisingly light and conditioning on the hair. The scent is difficult to compare with modern cosmetics:

• Top notes: green bay laurel (or myrtle) and spice
• Heart: warm herbal olive oil
• Base: deep labdanum amber and smoky myrrh

The result is less like a modern hair oil, and more like a perfumed botanical hair mask.

Historical Note

This recipe is a historical reconstruction inspired by the writings of Dioscorides (1st century CE) and the long tradition of Mediterranean aromatic oils. While the exact original proportions are unknown, the ingredients belong to a well-documented tradition of Greek and Near Eastern perfumery and cosmetic practice.

Using myrtle brings the recipe closer to the classical description; using bay laurel makes it accessible to modern herbalists while preserving the preparation’s aromatic and Mediterranean character.